Glazing | What is Glazing in Construction
What is Glazing in Construction:
Glazing is referred to in aluminum or other types of frames for the construction of curtain walls. In general, there are various techniques that can be used in the construction or placement of lacquer boards; Glaze boards can be glass or other materials
The application of glass to openings in doors and windows has already been mentioned on numerous occasions but without any further explanation than is necessary to understand the requirements of our door and window discussions.
Glass is often incorporated into concessions in the timber assembly work we have already described. The glass is always cut slightly lower than the opening, which measures the bottom of the concession.
This allows the glass to be fitted without being forced into position and therefore allows the glass to be stretched and compressed without compressing itself or the assembly. It also allows the glass to move without being pressurized (moisture content, central heating, etc.). Figure 9.31 illustrates this point.
Timber Glazing:
For ordinary glazing work:
The glass was at one time measured by weight – ounces per square foot – but is now measured by thickness in millimeters. There were a large number of different qualities of glass but these have now been cut down to just float glass and polished float glass.
Float glass is used for general lacquering, which we have mentioned previously. Polished glass is used for mirrors, tabletops, etc. The glass comes in clear or blurred, the degree of distortion depends on the sample that was affected by the molten sheet during manufacture.
There are not enough models available now. The basic method of glazing is done in joinery, which must be painted and requires a simple concession to prevent the absorption of oils in wood sealed and glazed materials.
These can be a linseed oil putty or a glazing compound – this is an improved version that does not dry quickly and does not crack. Several different steps are described below and illustrated in Figure 9.32:
(1) Place a generous bead of the compound in the rebate.
(2) Press the pane of glass into that bed of compound ensuring that it is evenly bedded
in and that the compound is squeezed up between the back of the rebate and the
glass.
(3) Drive glazing sprigs into the bottom of the rebate to secure the glass in position.
(4) Apply more compound in front of the glass and smooth off to an even slope, pressing it in to give an even, firm density.
(5) Remove the surplus compound from the inner face of the glass. Once this is completed the glazier’s work is done but the painter has to paint over the compound and up the front of the glass to seal the compound and the joint to the glass against the weather.
Glazing in beads is commonly done where there is a need for greater security, the glass
is very heavy, in an exposed situation or the timber has to be varnished or polished. Sometimes the beads and the glass are bedded in the compound, sometimes in silicone glazing compound, sometimes in wash leather 2 strips or velvet ribbon, and sometimes in a synthetic rubber or plastic gasket.
In the compound, the steps are:
(1) Place compound in the rebate as back putty.
(2) Press glass into the back putty and press home.
(3) Spread a little compound against the glass as afore putty.
(4) Press the bead against the fore putty, squeezing it up the face of the glass but not trapping any under the bead. Fix beads with glazing pins or wood screws.
(5) Clean off the surplus compound. The effect is to surround the glass with the compound
and have the beads secure it all in position.
In velvet or wash leather, the steps are:
(1) Place a strip of velvet in the rebate with enough upstand to cover the back of the rebate. The pile of velvet should face the glass.
(2) Place glass against the velvet and secure with two temporary sprigs on the sides.
(3) Turn velvet up the front of the glass on an edge without the sprigs and press bead
into place and secure with pins or screws. 2 Wash leather was originally natural leather from the chamois, an Alpine antelope, but was also manufactured from the leather made for other animal hides which were split to give the correct texture. There is synthetic chamois leather available now.
(4) Turn velvet upon an adjacent edge and secure with the bead, having removed the
temporary sprig.
(5) Treat adjacent sprig-free edge.
(6) Remove the last sprig and treat the last edge. Note that this is an entirely dry exercise – no compound, glue, silicone, or anything like that. The glass is gripped firmly between the pile of velvet or the soft wash leather.
The velvet comes like a ribbon but the wash leather has to be cut with a sharp knife
into strips. Velvet or wash leather is no use for external glazing and is used mainly for joinery work to cupboards and cabinets.
In silicone glazing compound, the steps are:
(1) Place the compound site in the corner of the concession. 15 to the pane door, four spots The panel copy is sufficient.
(2) Press the glass at a discount.
(3) Press the beads at the concession, pushing the compound from the back of the concession and Against the glass. Fix the beads with pins or screws.
(4) Complete the excess silicon. It fits one of the favorite ways to fix small panels on the 15-panel door. It’s quick and easy, especially if the pins are used Fixing the beads and running home with a pin push.
Beads: in gaskets, steps
(1) Cut the gasket lengthwise for each concession and miter the corners or cut the length of the gasket Full lacquer length and form mitered fold cut-outs.
(2) Place the gasket around the glass. If there is an external window door or not, bed the gasket with the appropriate compound; Usually, a silicon-based compound is used.
(3) Place the composite layer of the bed on the back and bottom of the concession.
(4) Put the glass and gasket in place.
(5) Insert the beads against the gasket, shrink the gasket and fix the pins or screws in place.
The type and design of the gasket will determine whether or not the sealer should be applied to each Step. Some gaskets can be completely dried.
The gaskets, without beads, are in two pieces in the gaskets. If the first is not pressed home a The console features a groove and a glass front facade To the place
Finally, if the locking strip is not pressed into the hinged part, it will prevent the gasket from opening and retaining the glass. The locking strip is a very tight fit to compress
Gasket against both wood and glass.
Wooden frame openings are very uncommon but quite common in plastics
The metal windows, instead of being set at a discount, fit the gasket to a thin fin, similar to the glazing methods used in the automobile industry.
From a safety standpoint, beads and gaskets are only attached to the lock strip If the discount is on the door or inside the window. There are instances that Thieves gain access by simply unwinding and extracting the bead fixings of The panel glass.
Figure 9.33 shows some of the above methods.
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